Rifugio Lagazuoi

You reach it by cable car from the Falzarego Pass, or on foot through the tunnels the Italian army dug into the mountain during the First World War — which is a strange and sobering way to arrive somewhere this beautiful. At 2,752 metres the refuge looks across at the Tofane, Marmolada and, on a clear evening, most of the eastern Dolomites turning pink.

There is a sauna, which at this altitude is a genuine luxury rather than a spa cliché. Half board is the norm in a rifugio: dinner and breakfast come with the bed.

Best for: watching the enrosadira from above, having walked up to it